Academy has been well known for producing modern versions of older kits and this one is no exception. Though it looks very much like the Heller kit, there are enough differences to prevent it from being a direct copy. For instance, it has engraved panel lines, a more complete interior and a separate pilot's canopy. There are also no underwing bomb racks or gun pods. This is enough to give it the 15% difference required by international copyright laws.

All of that aside, it really looks like a very nice kit. The Heller version was a super build and one of my favorites, so this one should be just that much better. The interior is much nicer with side wall detail that is not in the Heller version. 

The instructions are the usual pictograms with six construction steps. All colors are given in each step. The color chart gives only generic names and no FS colors. The decals are probably the highlight of the kit. I have used Academy decals and those in the newer kits are really very well done. These are no exception with bright colors and good registration.

You get three schemes for this kit. One is an Israeli Texan that is also given in an older Microscale decal sheet. This one is painted in standard Israeli camouflage and the FS numbers for the various colors are given in a sidebar for this scheme. The other two schemes are in overall unpainted metal. The Korean Air Force version is quite colorful with its red and white rudder stripes. The USAF version is one that was used for FAC duties during the Korean war. This aircraft has colored bands on the wing tips and tail tip. Many of these planes had black undersides, but this scheme does not show that.

This is the second time I've built this kit and I like it very much. 

As is the norm with most aircraft kits, I started with the interior. I first painted all the interior bits with US Interior green using Mission Models acrylics. I recommend primering these parts first as it helps the paint to stick without needing multiple coats when brush painting. With the cockpit built up, it was installed in the fuselage halves.

Next up, the wings were built and tailplanes were installed. A fairly straight-forward process that was helped by the tailplanes being keyed (as in one side tab is larger than the other. With those installed, I attached the wing. Fit is pretty good, though not perfect, especially at the front, where there will be a bit of a gap that needs filled. Speaking of filling gaps, I see quite a few nice builds that are somewhat marred by the builder not taking the time to deal with gaps. This seems to be most prevalent along the leading edges of wings. Folks, just sanding is often not enough to deal with them, so take the additional time to ensure they are gap-free.

The engine was installed in the cowling and the cowling tacked in place. The kit has the exhaust trapped between the engine and forward fuselage, so it is important to temporarily attach the engine assembly until after all the painting is done. I then masked the canopy using vinyl masks. As much as I like vinyl masks, they can truly suck at holding over anything but the most gentle curve.

With the canopy masked and attached, the engine was masked with Silly Putty. This one is overall aluminum. After trying for a third time to get Mr Color's extreme aluminum lacquer to not come off on my hands, I gave up on it and tossed the bottle. Out came Tamiya AS-12 in a rattle can and the airframe was repainted. Problem solved. The nose was masked and painted matte black.

Once dry, I removed the engine and attached the exhaust, later reattaching it. Next, the landing gear. Both the gear and wheels are a bit on the loose side so you have to watch it while the glue sets. Tail gear was attached as were the various antennas, the pitot and the gear doors. For markings, I chose a Yemeni aircraft from Tiger Head Decals. One has to get the placement guide from their web site. I had downloaded the .pdf many years ago when I bought the decals. They went on without any fuss. Some of the other common decals, like the wing walk markings, came from the kit sheet. The masks were removed and the underspray on the curved bits were dealt with as best I could with a sharpened toothpick. Finally, the prop was glued in. Unfortunately, it dried a bit crooked, but I can live with it.

In my opinion, this is the best T-6G on the market and it is not expensive. Special Hobby reboxed this with an earlier canopy and some other bits along with a killer decal sheet, but it is fairly pricey.

19 September 2025

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