The first thing I did was to check over the instructions and look for subassemblies. There aren't any aside from the cockpit. Much of the cockpit is based on photo-etched parts. Many of these are quite tiny and so even folding them is a challenge. However, if you have a folding tool such as an Etchmate, then this won't be as difficult as it seems. One thing I noticed right off is that there are no dedicated placement spots for the photo-etch or anything else. The interior walls are a nice framework, but it is up to the builder to make room for the bits. Instructions are a bit vague on actual placement as well. It would be nice to have an 'after' images with the bits in place. I decided to use as much photo etch as I could so spent considerable time getting the rather flimsy back bulkhead in place and then gluing the p.e. seat to it. Then there are cushions and floor instruments as well as a p.e. control stick.

Instrument panels have acetate instruments where one paints the back of the acetate in white then attaches the acetate to the back of the panel. I used clear gloss paint for this. There are two guns that fit on the floor with ammo belts that attach. Rudder pedals are also p.e. and I had to make a pedestal for them out of stretched sprue. When I was done, the assembly and interior were painted a darkish grey as directed by the instructions. Meanwhile, I had painted the engine as it needs to be installed when the fuselage halves are glued together.

Then I had the first inkling that this wasn't going to be easy. I should preface all this by pointing out that I couldn't get the ammo belts to fit. Regardless of what I did, I could not get things to match the drawings. I also found that when I test fit the interior, I couldn't get a good fit. I had to cut away about the lower 1/4 or so of the molded in sidewall framework on both sides or the seat would be so far down in the cockpit that no pilot would be able to see above the opening. Fortunately, I have a very nice micro-chisel that works wonders in such conditions. There is no indication of just where the engine fits, either. One just glued the cylinder heads to the interior and hopes for the best. Since I use a 'hot' glue, this helps. After making sure the interior fit on both sides, I glued the interior to one half and let it dry. Then I glued the fuselage halves together. I was not surprised to notice that the etched metal rear framework was too wide and so it 'scrunched' when I glued the halves.

At this time, some would despair.

However, I was determined to finish this one so soldiered on in the knowledge that little could be seen through the tiny cockpit opening, even though it really meant that all that work had gone for naught.

During this time, I assembled the wings. The rear wing section is really too thick and could do with some scraping down to get a thin trailing edge. I didn't do this. With the fuselage together and filler applied to the usual areas and sanded down, I glued on the tail planes. This is something I try to do before attaching the wings as it allows one to at least have a chance to get the wings properly aligned!

Then I glued on the wings. No surprise here that I needed filler everywhere. The kit offers parts for doing the wheels without spats, though all the options in the kit had them. This meant that instead of one piece wheel/strut, these bits were two piece. I first glued on the upper sections to correspond with the etched guides on the wing.  Then I glued on the lower spatted sections. Fit is not that good and I somehow ended up with them at slightly different angles. Next time (as if I'll build another of these) I'll drill out both parts and insert a section of wire to help out.  The tail skid was glued in place at this time.

Next the canopy. It has well defined frame lines and though only one is provided, I had little trouble cutting it out and getting it ready to install. I masked it with Tamiya tape and found that the upper portion of the canopy was so thin that I accidentally cut through it while cutting the tape. This is one of many reasons that I think that two vac canopies should be with every kit and the more enlightened manufacturers provide this option. I filled the cockpit with tape and masked off the engine.

There are four decal options provided, each offering an interesting scheme. I chose the one for the Philippines in December 1941 for my model. This consists of the standard grey on the underside with the upper surface in two greens and a light brown. I looked through my paints and found I still had some of the old Aeromaster acrylics for these shades. The two greens are a bit close to each other in shade, but I had them and figured I might as well use them.

I first painted the entire airframe in Japanese Army Grey-Green as that is how these were delivered from the factory. I masked off the lower surfaces and then attached the canopy using white glue. When that was dry I returned to the paint shop.

I thinned the other three colors to near water consistency. The matte surface onto which I would be spraying will prevent any 'runs, drips and errors' due to the thin paint and I used low (about 7 psi) pressure to free hand the camo scheme using my Skybow AB-100 detail airbrush. The Light Earth was first  and I did the entire upper surface with this shade. Next, I used Nakajima Army Green and Nakajima Navy Green for the two green shades. As I had feared, the acrylic paint dried on the tip rather easily, requiring much stopping and wiping of the tip to remove the dried paint. This made the painting process longer than I'd have liked, but all turned out well. When I was satisfied with the camo scheme, I gave the entire model a Future (gloss clear acrylic) overcoat

The decals are absolutely superlative. They are thin, opaque and responded well to ordinary Microsol/set. In fact, they are the best part of the kit and well worth keeping for other projects.

With the decals in place and dry, I added the final bits, which included the cooler thingie for the front of the engine. This part fits where it touches as again, there is no concrete attachment point for it. The prop was glued on as was the radio mast and the pitot tube. I also glued on the exhaust. Even these tiny parts had seam lines to scrape! I gave the model a coat of Future/matte base to dull things up. The masking was removed without trauma and some touch-up painting was done. Final step was to glue on the prop.