When it comes to Spitfires, the wing used is as important to accuracy of a kit as anything else. This kit uses the C wing and below is probably more info that you want about Spitfire wings.

The "C-type" wing, or "Universal wing" was a more heavily modified wing, redesigned to reduce labour and manufacturing time, as well as to allow different armament configuration options to be fitted in a single, universal wing structure which could accommodate several different armament layouts without serious structural modification or alteration (a similar kind of wing was developed for the Hawker Hurricane, allowing anything from 8 to 10 .303 Brownings, to four 20mm Hispanos, to twin anti-tank 40mm Vickers "S" guns and a pair of .303's to be fitted into the same wing). Without modification, the "universal" wing could accept "A", "B", "C" or "E-type" armament configuration, although the "E" type wasn't used until later marks of Spitfire. The "B" type, 2-cannon, 4-Browning layout was by far the most commonly seen on "C" wing Spitfires, until the Mk IX and the "E" wing. Differences in the "C" wings include a second cannon-bay added directly alongside the first, and the #3 Browning gun being moved slightly outboard from ribs 13 to 14, making the two outer machine guns closer together than in the older "B" type wing.

Although officially any aircraft with a universal wing is a "C" variant regardless of their armament configuration (excepting "E" types), in later popular (and incorrect) usage, "C" variants with the same armament as the "B" type are often called "B" variants, even though it's technically a "C", and structurally it is different than the older "B" wing Spitfire. The new wing now had two inner gun bays able to accommodate cannon, although one bay was usually left empty. The outer two .303 machine guns were also moved closer together than in "A" or "B" type wings, which is one of the primary visual aids to distinguishing an original "B" type from later universal wing "B types", along with the second pair of cannon ports, which are visible even though typically no weapons are fitted in the second cannon bay. In this case, the empty port is usually closed off with a rubber plug. The cannon mounts were also moved further back in the wing, so the barrel fairings of the cannon are shorter than on an original "B" Spitfire.

Few, if any, "C" Spitfires were built with the eight .303 Browning "A" armament configuration, which was viewed as obsolete by the time the Mk V went into combat. The "C" type wing was the first which could accommodate an all-cannon armament of four 20mm Hispanos; thus the "C" designation is popularly reserved for four-cannon Spitfires (i.e. Mk Vc). The "C" type armament was also rarely used (although not as rare as the "A" armament), due to the extra weight of the added cannon eroding performance and handling. Many Spitfires originally fitted with the "C" armament had the extra cannon removed in the field to save weight. In theory, a "Universal" wing Spitfire could carry an armament of four 20mm cannon and four .303 Brownings, but this would be heavily loading the aircraft indeed, and thus was never used. (An "E" type wing, usually seen in Mk IX and later versions, was similar to the "C" armament, but used a pair of American .50 caliber Browning AN/M2 heavy machine guns in place of the inner pair of Hispanos, giving an armament of two Hispanos and two .50cal Brownings.)

The Universal wing also took into account the fact that the Hispano cannon had been converted to belt-feed, a move which allowed each cannon to carry double the ammunition load, or 120 rpg in ammunition trays instead of 60 rpg as in the original drum-fed cannon of the Mk Vb. This also eliminated the need for under- and over-wing blisters to accommodate the large-diameter ammunition drum, instead only requiring a small blister to cover the electrical "Chattellerault" feed mechanism. The undercarriage mountings were redesigned and the undercarriage doors were bowed in cross section allowing the legs to sit lower in the wells, eliminating the upper-wing blisters over the wheel wells and landing gear pivot points. The stronger undercarriage legs were angled 2 inches (5.08 cm) forward when extended, making the Spitfire more stable on the ground and reducing the likelihood of the aircraft tipping onto its nose. In addition the retractable landing lights were no longer fitted. Structural hard-points were added outboard of the wheel-wells, allowing racks to be fitted under each wing which were capable of carrying one 250 lb (113 kg) bomb each.

First let me state that this kit was a new tool back in 2020 and not the older raised panel line kit. As such, it has a pretty accurate and more parts intensive interior than the older Spitfires. It has raised detail for the instrument panel and also a decal to use over it. The kit also provides the seat armor missing in older kits. The interior has separate sidewalls so you basically build the cockpit subassembly and then trap it between fuselage halves. Note that the kit offers both open and closed canopy options which will require the modeler to do a bit of trimming for the closed option.

Wings have separate pieces for the gear wells that fit into the lower halve. Holes will need to be opened if you wish to use the large fuselage slipper tank. Once the wings are assembled, it along with the horizontal stabs and rudder are attached to the fuselage. Next, the large sand filter is assembled and attached. You are provided the option for two wing cannon per side or just the single version. The markings options allow for one of each. Underwing radiators are next and you can pose the lare radiator exhaust door open if you wish.

Airfix offers the option for raised or lowered main gear. No stand is provided, but Airfix does sell those separately if you desire. With the gear and doors installed, it is time for the exhaust. Again two options are provided with one have heater tubes running off the aft section. These can be left off until after painting as can the landing gear. Other options are two different propellers and two different shape spinners. Again, one of each of the two markings options. Last bits are pitot, radio mast, pilot (if you want to use one) and the canopy option of your choice. Note that these planes did not have a long radio wire as the RAF was using VHF radios by this time and the antenna wire simply ran inside the mast.

As usual, Airfix instructions are well done and provide Humbrol paint references. For the build, only numbers are given, but for the overall camo you have RAF color names. Both options are in the desert scheme of midstone/dark earth over what they call middle blue (azure blue). The box art plane is with the 307 FS, USAAF in late 1942 and has a white spinner. The other is with 2 squadron SAAF and has a dull red spinner and horizontal stab tips. Decals are very well done  and look as good as any aftermarket sheet.

CONSTRUCTION

I somewhat broke with tradition on this one and followed the kit's instructions, primarily as I'd not built the recent tool Spitfire and building up the interior looked fairly complex. It turned out that it was. First step was to sand on the cockpit opening as I wanted to use the closed canopy option. Then I got down to actual construction. Basically one installs all the interior framework and subassemblies into one half of a 'cage', then attaches the other side of this construct to complete the cage. Then this is installed in one fuselage half, this fitting in the lower half of each fuselage side. I found attaching the floor subassembly with the seat to be the most fiddly and highly recommend attaching all the framework pieces at the same time then closing the cage while the cement is still tacky. This will prevent any alignment issues as on my kit, the various frames are just a bit off center due to attaching all of them to one half and letting them dry first.

With that done, the prop hub piece was attached and the fuselage halves joined together. Fit is actually very good and on the fuselage, simply sanding took care of any seam work. This is as much thanks to Airfix's fairly soft plastic as anything. The main gear wells were attached to the lower wing and the upper halves were added. Again, a good fit requiring only sanding. Next the wing and tailplanes along with the rudder were glued to the fuselage. Here was the first fit issue as the cockpit cage interfered with the wing fitting snugly. Some sanding work on the bottom of that item gave me the room needed. Next, there is a gap in the aft lower wing/fuselage join. I also had to clamp the wing to get the rear portion to conform to the fuselage.

With that filled and sanded, I assembled and attached the sand filter. This also did not fit very well, being a little narrower than the area to which it had to fit. I also had to clamp the rear portion to get it to conform while the glue dried. I then masked the canopy and installed it along with the outer gun barrels. The wheel wells were then filled with Silly Putty and it was off to the paint shop.

COLORS & MARKINGS

As often happens, I bought this kit because of a decal sheet. In this case it was the new Euro Decals sheet on Malta Spitfires. The majority of the aircraft on the sheet had somewhat non-standard paint schemes. By that, I mean that most of us don't have the colors in our standard paint rack. For the one I wanted to do, it was Sky Blue on the underside and Dark Mediterranean Blue on the upper surface. I didn't have those colors, but a brand out of Ukraine, Arcus, does. The kit went into the box while awaiting the paint. About two weeks later it showed up. These are enamels and were thinned with Testors enamel thinner. First the Sky Blue was painted on and after a couple of days, the underside was masked and the Dark Mediterranean Blue was painted on. After a few more days of curing and I installed the landing gear.

Then a clear coat was brushed on and I applied the decals. The Euro Decals are thin and opaque. I had no issues with them and used MicroSol, my weakest setting solution, on them. With that done, the wheels and main gear doors were attached. I also attached the prop and exhaust. I had lost the radio mast so cobbled one out of sprue and glued it in place. A bit of touch up painting was done, followed by a coat of clear matte to seal everything in. Masking was removed and a bit of pastel exhaust work finished it off.