I'll take the lazy way out and refer you to the kit preview for this information.

Construction with this kit begins with the wings. Yep, decided to start off somewhere different on this one. Since this is a short run kit, I started off by cutting the wings from the sprues and leaving a bit of a stub at the attachment points. I do this as often the sprue will run into the part itself and if you cut them off flush, you often take a small chunk out of the part. The nub can easily be sanded off. Like most short run kits, this one doesn't have very sharp trailing edges. Your choices are to do a lot of sanding or just leave it as is. I took the lazy way out. The fit really isn't bad at all, especially after the mating surfaces have been sanded as smooth as you can get it. I did end up clamping the parts as the wing has a bit of a gull in it and so needed it.

At this time, I also glued the wheel pants together as well as the engine cowling halves. The interior bits were also glued together and all these were set aside to dry before the next step. Once dry, the various seams were filled. And all the bits that came in halves had rather large seams.

Once those were filled and cleaned up, I took another look at the wings. The control surface lines on this kit are about the same size as the rest of the engraved lines. They really need to be deepened. Taking my scriber, I ran it across the control surface lines a few times to deepen them. The result is quite an improvement.

Then the interior had the instrument panel installed as well as the control stick. The interior and fuselage interior were then painted Misubishi Interior green, an Aeromaster Acrylic color.

Meanwhile, the engine was painted and installed in the cowling. This took a bit of creative carving to get it to sit far enough back so that it didn't jut out past the front of the cowling. The cowling front also needed some cleanup and work to properly fit. All in a normal day's work for a short run kit.

Then the interior was completed. This included the installation of the etched brass instrument panel. To no surprise, it was too large. I eventually had to cut the instrument panel to fit to the top of the fuselage. Fitting the interior in was a fun job as well as it was a bit too narrow for the fuselage. I eventually glued in some pieces of plastic on the sides for the interior to sit on. The fuselage halves were then glued together. The seams were filled and sanded smooth.

The next step was to install the flying surfaces. To make sure that they were all square to each other, they were all glued on at the same time. Fit wasn't bad. There were gaps at the wing/fusealge join and the fin/rudder didn't fit all the way down to the fuselage in the back, but this was to be expected. That is what filler is for! The wings were also a bit thinner than the wing root, but again, filler to the rescue!

Next piece to glue in place was the engine. The cowling to fuselage fit is not good. In fact, I had to bevel the heck out of the back of the cowling to get any decent fit at all. It is important that the bottom of the cowling be flush with the underside of the fuselage as shown on the box art. This will look a bit odd at first, but it is the way it was done. Once that had dried, the landing gear, minus the outer wheels, was glued to the bottom of the wings. There are no mounting points or marks, so use the instructions as a guide for placement. The front of the landing gear leg covering should be nearly level with the leading edge of the wing. 

Next step was to add the intakes on the top and bottom of the engine. Then the tail wheel was added to a hole drilled in the lower rear fuselage. Another hole was drilled in the leading edge of the wing for the gun barrel, which, like the exhaust ports, will be made from stretched sprue/tubing.

I then trimmed the canopy and carefully test fit it a number of times. Much to my dismay, when I used clippers to cut off a bit from the front of the canopy, it took a huge chunk out of the canopy and the piece went flying off, never to be seen again. The lesson here is not to use clippers on clear plastic. This is why I wish all companies would put in a second vac canopy! A replacement was requested from Pavla. Eventually, my request was answered and I received three replacement canopies, one of which I again cracked during removal from the backing. It seems that the clear that Pavla uses is more brittle than some others.

Once all that was done, the canopy was unmasked and the prop, which had been painted prop color was installed after a hole was drilled into the engine front for it. Then the wing tip lights were painted, a piece of white decal used to simulate the landing light and an antenna made from stretched sprue. That was the last step and my 'Ann' was done.

The key is that they build into what they are supposed to be. They are not impossible builds and the results are satisfying. That is what a kit is supposed to be. Recommended for all who think they can handle the fit problems and are able to fabricate some of the needed parts.