Dragon 1/35 Flakpanzer 38(t) Ausf L
Check the preview for a good historical summary and a quick look at what’s in the box.
This is my third Dragon Smart Kit, and I stand amazed once again. In fact, almost too amazed: this was one of the hardest kits I’ve ever assembled. Start with over 540 parts, throw in the dreaded photoetch and individual link tracks (Dragon’s “Magictracks”), and you have a case of advanced modeling syndrome just looking for a place to happen (in fact, it took me several months to finally complete this beast, and I had to slap the AMS out of myself).
Per the instructions, I started with the lower hull and suspension system. I also assembled the road wheels and glued them to the lower hull. I then assembled the transmission, the engine (26 pieces!) and the radiator.
The next subassembly was the upper hull. There are quite a few parts on each
of these, so I tried to take my time and make sure that I didn’t miss anything.
I like to glue the tools on the tank and then hand-paint them later. Right off
the bat, the dreaded PE came into play. There are a myriad of latches,
tie downs, and boxes that are PE. I don’t have one of the PE bending tools, but
I would highly recommend one of these for this kit.
As an example of the PE complexity, each of the tie downs for the
Step 13 is where I had the most trouble. I decided to build the kit with the gun shields in the “up” position, but for some reason, I just could not get the parts to line up correctly (perhaps due to mislabeling?). No matter how I tried them, the angles just would not match up. After several attempts, I decided the only alternative was to scratch-build my own shields with the correct angles. So I made some templates and cut out the parts from thin white plastic stock.
|COLORS AND MARKINGS|
I started by painting the interior compartments. From articles I have been able to read on the Internet, German armor engine compartments were painted red, so I opted for Floquil’s hull red. After painting the compartment, I placed the covers on it and then painted the vehicle’s exterior. I sprayed the transmission compartment flat white.
For the exterior, I decided on a different paint scheme than the instructions offered. I started with MM Sand Gelb as the overall base coat, and then painted red brown and dark green splotches on the vehicle. I sprayed the tracks with Testors Steel.
Next, I dry brushed the vehicle with Polly S Fantasy Goblin Flesh to simulate rust (ever since Floquil stopped making their rust wash, I have found it difficult to locate a paint that actually looks like real rust. This fantasy paint is about as close as I have come lately). The final weathering was to take a silver artist’s pencil and rub it on sharp edges where there normally would be wear to simulate bare metal.
This is yet another great kit from Dragon. I highly recommend this kit to all armor buffs, plus anybody that’s up for a modeling challenge!
Thanks to www.dragonmodelsusa.com for the review kit. You can find this one at their website or your local hobby shop.
If you would like your product reviewed fairly and quickly, please contact me or see other details in the Note to Contributors.
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