Revell 1/144 Space Shuttle Launch Complex

The first of several parts

 The Space Shuttle was the first operational orbital spacecraft designed for reuse. It carried different payloads to low Earth orbit, provided crew rotation for the International Space Station (ISS), and performed servicing missions. The orbiter could also recover satellites and other payloads from orbit and return them to Earth. Each Shuttle was designed for a projected lifespan of 100 launches or ten years of operational life, although this was later extended. The crucial factor in the size and shape of the Orbiter was the requirement that it be able to accommodate the largest planned commercial and military satellites, and have the cross-range recovery range to meet the requirement for classified USAF missions for a once-around abort from a launch to a polar orbit. Factors involved in opting for solid rockets and an expendable fuel tank included the desire of the Pentagon to obtain a high-capacity payload vehicle for satellite deployment, and the desire of the Nixon administration to reduce the costs of space exploration by developing a spacecraft with reusable components.

Each Space Shuttle is a reusable launch system that is composed of three main assemblies: the reusable Orbiter Vehicle (OV), the expendable external tank (ET), and the two reusable solid rocket boosters (SRB). Only the orbiter entered orbit shortly after the tank and boosters are jettisoned. The vehicle was launched vertically like a conventional rocket, and the orbiter glided to a horizontal landing like an airplane, after which it was refurbished for reuse. The SRBs parachuted to splashdown in the ocean where they were towed back to shore and refurbished for later Shuttle missions.

At times, the orbiter itself was referred to as the Space Shuttle. Technically, this was a slight misnomer, as the actual "Space Transportation System" (STS) was the combination of the orbiter, the external tank, and the two solid rocket boosters. Combined, these were referred to as the "stack"; the components were assembled in the Vehicle Assembly Building.

Five space-worthy orbiters were built: Challenger (OV-099), Columbia (OV-102), Discovery (OV-103), Atlantis (OV-104), and Endeavour (OV-105). A mock-up, Inspiration (OV-100), currently stands at the entrance to the Astronaut Hall of Fame. An additional craft, Enterprise (OV-101), was not built for orbital space flight, and was used only for testing gliding and landing. Enterprise was originally intended to be made fully space-worthy after use for the approach and landing test (ALT) program, but it was found more economical to upgrade the structural test article STA-099 into orbiter Challenger (OV-099). Challenger disintegrated 73 seconds after launch in 1986, and Columbia broke apart during re-entry in 2003.

The system was retired from service in 2011 after 135 missions; on July 8, 2011, with Space Shuttle Atlantis performing that 135th launch - the final launch of the three-decade Shuttle program. The program ended after Atlantis landed at the Kennedy Space Center on July 21, 2011.

I bought this kit several years ago, partly started. This is the version without the Shuttle, but I was able to source a Revell 1/144 Shuttle in the meantime. One thing you will notice is that this is a BIG box and it is stuffed with parts! Molded in gray, the kit consists of hundreds of parts, more if the shuttle is included. The level of detail is good, but is simplified by necessity, as the real deal is incredibly complex. The molding is first rate and even the rails are crisp and show no hint of flash.

The kit is severely undersized. I believe the kit was made to fit the existing shuttle kit. It had an undersized MLP and Revell just scaled the complex to fit the shuttle kit. The actual height of the shuttle gantry is 247ft (minus the crane and lightning mast), 1/144 should be 20.58in. The Revell kit measures out to be 17 5/16, or almost 3 inches short. Each level is 20ft high (ground level is 27ft) in real life, 1/144 should be 1.67in. Measures out to be 1 14/32, about a 1/4 inch short. (note that 1/4 (amount short) x 12 (number of levels)= 3.0 (almost the amount the tower is too short) Each level is 40x40 in real life, 1/144 should be 3.66x3.66 in. They measure out to be 2 30/32x2 30/32, about a 1/2in to small. The model scales out to be about 1/170.

The instructions are typical Revell. They consist of drawings and is 12 pages. Colors are listed on the front page and there are very few callouts in the steps.

My kit is dated 1986 and, of course, it's out of production. They come up on the various auction places, but prices can run as high as $300/$400. There is hope that Revell may someday reissue the kit.

LVM DETAIL SETS: You can check out Scotts' previews for a detailed look at the sets. Believe me, pictures do not do them justice! The brass is absolutely stunning! The details are crisp, sharp and well defined. I did notice that some of the attachments points are a bit big, but nothing that will cause problems. The instructions come on a disc and must be printed out... and you will NEED them! They are detailed and very easy to follow. The instructions contain drawings as well as in progress photos to show just to make modifications to the kit as well as how to assemble the various parts. Each section also includes a parts layout identifying each part.

 First I want to mention glue. You need to use CA to assemble the LC39S1 set. They are mostly flat pieces and I found that the CA with a brush works best. I tried the tube types but found it was easier to apply it with a brush. The tube type can still be used on the smaller parts however.

Buying a partly built kit caused me trouble. Since the entire FSS structure was assembled in my kit, my first order of business was to take it all apart. Luckily, the bond of the old glue was not too bad. Although, in some places, I did have a bit of trouble getting it apart. Once apart, I had to clean up the residual glue as best I could. We'll see how it goes...

First, you WILL need a p/e bending tool for this. I don't see any other way to make the bends required on some of the parts.

A few notes on the instructions... On page 3 you're told you will need Evergreen Pack #141: 1x2mm strip. The package is actually #144. On page 7 step 3, it tells you to bend PE20x2 and PE21x3, it should be PE20x3 and PE21x2. The parts layout on page 4 identifies them correctly. On page 10 PE9 and page 11 PE10 both show an small white outline in the upper left corner with no label. I assume they are the 6x3x10 Evergreen called for elsewhere in the instructions. So that's what I installed. (I have talked to Leon at LVM about these and hopefully he will correct them)

Cut out the platform for levels 280 & 260. After bending the edges, I felt the platforms looked a bit plain, so I installed framework on the bottom sides with some spare Plastruct 3/32 U-channel. It will take 2 packs if you want to do this as well. They should be I-beams, but they are there mostly for effect and strength. Turn the platforms over and sand off any glue showing on the top. Next, on page 11, add the plastic details called for. You'll need someway to measure and cut the Evergreen strips supplied with the kit. Mark the positions for, but leave off, PE21 (or PE20 depending on the level) and the plastic part that goes with it. You can install those later. Attach platforms 280 and 260 to kit part #1 and kit part #2, but do not glue the kit parts together yet. Attach the levels so that kit part #2 forms the back side of the FSS and mount the levels with the stairs opening toward kit part #1. This will make it easier to get your hands in to install the stairs later. Take care here and make sure that everything is lined up correctly! You will notice that the FSS assembly is rather flimsy. Repeat the above process with levels 160 and 80. This will make adding the stairs at 160 and 80 a little more difficult, but it gives the FSS some strength. It's quite bulky and easily broken. After attaching the levels to the FSS, run a bead of glue down the outside edge of the kit parts and attach some clamps. Let it dry overnight.

Next, following the instructions, build and install a set of stairs between levels 260 and 280. I only thing I changed was to add Part PE14 to part PE12 before attaching part PE13 to part PE12. I found it a bit easier to fit PE14 this way and it gave me something to help attaching PE13. Attach part PE18 after the stairs are in place. I must comment that the engineering of the stairs is some of the best p/e work I have ever seen. They go together with no trouble, despite being quite complicated, and fit perfectly.

Working your way down from the top, assemble and install each level and a set of stairs. Complete each level before going on to the next. Once all the levels are done, go back through the level diagrams and install parts PE20 and PE21, along with the plastic parts called for. Make sure to align the parts from top to bottom.

The last step is to install the cable trays. Be aware that the Evergreen strips are not long enough to do the longest runs in one piece. End these runs at the bottom of a level, insert another piece and glue it at the joint.

At this point I painted the FSS. Also paint the 2 sides not yet attached. It's a bit of a hassle to get all the nooks and crannies covered and having the sides not yet installed makes in easier. Once everything is dry, remove paint where needed for gluing and attach the last 2 sides. (This will take place in Part 4 or 5 of the build)

 I was amazed at how easily this set was assembled. The fit of the completed parts was outstanding. I was able to do basic assembly in just over a week. Anyone who has one of these Shuttle Complex kits will definitely want to get these detail sets.

Thanks to LVM, via your editor for the review set.

 Mark Hiott