Fine Molds 1/48 X-Wing
Kit based on Lucas Films Studio Model
Aw Uncle Owen!
The X Wing fighter is one of the most unique
spaceships to grace the screen as it first appeared in Star Wars and the other 1
2/3 good Star Wars movies.
X-Wing or Incom T-65 is the mainstay of the Rebel Alliance’s fighter squadrons.
It is the Rebel Alliance’s
equivalent of the multirole F-15 as it has enough firepower, shields and speed
to deal with the hordes of Imperial Tie Fighters (Rebel starfighter pilots are
trained to deal with odds of 2:1 and more) as well as attacking capital ships
and moon sized space stations.
It is armed with four laser cannon
on each wing tip and a pair of missile launchers (which can fire concussion
missiles or proton torpedoes) as well as strong shield generators for
The X-Wing also carries a
hyperspace generator which means that it can do hit and run attacks without a
nearby capital ship.
Most of the information
gleaned from the instruction of X-Wing Alliance Flight Sim game and watching
See the earlier preview of the kit.
One of the grumbling from
the SF model peanut gallery is the shape and size of the nose (apparently a
similar issue with the previous 1/72 model kit) and the cockpit/engine detail is
not entirely correct.
Fine Molds has done a very
good job of breaking down the parts so that the seams are located at the
“actual” seams or hatches especially with their Y-Wing model.
The X-wing is no different for the
started off painting the cockpit and detail painting the cockpit consoles.
As some Star Wars modelers have
pointed out, it is not entirely accurate compared to the movie version
(especially when you reference the photos from the movie models) but it is good
enough for me.
Once the cockpit areas were
complete then I began the process of construction.
kit is a snap tite kit, but not plagued with huge fit issues.
In fact, as long as you follow the
instructions then you won’t have too many problems (any fiddly problems I had
occurred when I didn’t follow instructions so the lesson is to follow
This kit is a little unusual as one
of the tools you will require is a Phillips screw driver to attach the parts
Just be careful not to crank the
screws or you will crack the plastic (fortunately, I did not do this.)
an added precaution, I put liquid glue into the seams to fill it and I needed a
bit of Mr Surfacer around the nose piece and the underside of the nose where the
proton torpedo launchers go and the rear of the X-Wing.
There are also seams along the
leading and trailing edges of the x-wing wings that need filled and sanded (the
only spot in the model that needed sanding from what I recall.)
I opted for in flight rather than resting on the
landing gear so I used the parts with the doors closed using the poly caps
This is usually the best part of working on a Fine
Molds Star Wars kit.
I began by masking the canopy and
then preshading the entire model in flat black and whatever excess colors I had
in my airbrush (various dark grays, greens and brown) as I usually paint several
models at once.
I decided to paint the insides
of the engine section (located in the X wing’s X wing) burnt iron.
I did not mask these parts off as
the overspray added to the grittiness of the model.
entire model is FS36440 and I used part of my stock of Gunze H325.
The Rebel Alliance apparently did
not like clean spaceships so I had to be careful not to over do the paint and
make it appear clean.
I used some photos of Luke
Skywalker’s X-wing to reproduce the markings as best I could.
The cockpit color is the same as
the exterior color so I masked off the canopy with Tamiya tape and sprayed it at
the same time.
my airbrush, I sprayed in light coats to allow enough of the preshaded sections
Depending on the paint, sometimes
you have to spot just before it looks just right because the colors become more
opaque when the paint cures (I have found that Gunze has this tendency.)
In some places I kept the FS36440
very thin as these sections were very dirty.
Some folks like to post shade with
pastels or different shades instead, but I prefer the pre shading because I
think I have a good eye for that.
It’s whatever works for you.
further review, I needed to make the X-Wing dirtier and took extra thinned
German Black (2 parts thinner to 1 part paint) and sprayed certain sections
(especially around the engines as they were particularly dirty.)
let the paint cure for a couple of days before I masked off the area around the
cockpit and sprayed Poly Scale Light Ghost Grey all over it and the canopy as
per instructions (note: Testors/Poly Scale paint do not react well to not
completely cured Gunze which is the reason why there was a gap.)
Fine Molds does supply decals for
it but I had problems using them when I build the 1/72 version of the X-wing so
I decided to actually do the work to paint them.
the paint was dry, I sprayed on Gunze gloss to prepare the surface for decals
(the kit also contains stickers, but I didn’t use them as they are way thicker
than the decals.)
Normally I wouldn’t as Gunze H325
is actually a semigloss paint but I also know that the coverage was deliberately
spotty at best which is why I ended up adding the flat coat.
Part of me wanted to mask off the
sections so that I could recreate the dirty areas of the red markings, but the
much lazier side of me vetoed that idea on the basis that it was too much work.
Anyway, Fine Molds decals go on
okay and settle down around using Micro Sol and Set.
Some of the other decals needed
another go of MicroSol before they conformed over the detail.
this point, I used some a mix of very thinned red brown and red paints as a wash
for the exposed parts of the interior of the wings as per photos of the
Lucasfilm studio model.
Once done that I used a dark brown
watercolor wash to highlight various portions of the panel lines including the
I wiped the excess off with a
slightly wetted Q-Tip.
By this time I got the flu and
stopped constructing as I felt it more important to curl up into a ball and
cough my lungs out.
Several weeks later when I could
actually move about, I sprayed on the flat coat over the model and I was done.
As mentioned before, I don’t
like figure painting (no interest in it) and don’t put figures in my airplane
models except my Fine Molds Star Wars Models.
I painted Luke using international
orange, flesh, tan, white, black and silver.
I used the decals for the markings
on his helmet and used a water color wash to make the helmet look dirty (as it
was supposed to be) and bring out Luke’s face.
I even took the effort to paint his
eyes (not well, but at least he does not look like a bug eyed freak.)
was easier to do.
I sprayed on a thin coat of Tamiya
Aluminum and then used Hawkeye Talon Acrylic for the final coat.
This works a lot better than just
using Talon by itself as the Tamiya Aluminum acts as a primer.
Once the paint was dry, I added the
decals and when the decals were dry, I used a gloss coat.
Both figures were glued
in place and the canopy was removed off the canopy and glued on with Elmer’s
The stand was assembled
and my X-wing Red Five was done.
I really do enjoy building
these Fine Molds Star Wars Kits.
They are designed more for the Star
Wars Fan Boys who don’t build models often, but with a lot of care and some
weathering you can make a very good 1/48 scale X-wing fighter and pretend (to
the dismay of your friends and loved ones) that you are down in the trench with
Luke Skywalker fighting the Empire and taking a shot at a target two meters in
length and no bigger than a womprat.
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