Revell 1/32 Junkers Ju-88A-1
KIT #: | 4728 |
PRICE: | 11,800 yen |
DECALS: | Three options |
REVIEWER: | Tom Cleaver |
NOTES: |
HISTORY |
Pilot reports of both prototypes were so enthusiastic
that the RLM ordered three more prototypes.
In 1938, the RLM added the requirement that the airplane
be capable of precision dive bombing, which resulted in the Ju-88-V4, and
finally the Ju-88-V6, which represented the first production series, the
Ju-88A-1.
THE KIT |
When Revell of Germany first
announced last year that they would release a Ju-88A-1 that was based on an
actual Ju-88A-1 raised from a lake in Norway, modelers were agog at the thought,
particularly with the low price of around $45 that was set.
That price has increased as international finance has
played holy hell with exchange rates, but for what is there, the kit is a major
bargain.
Decals are provided for three aircraft, though there
are no swastikas.
The only problem is that the kit
does not include the four underwing bomb racks, which almost all Ju-88s were
equipped with. Fortunately, Jerry Rutman quickly came to the rescue with a set
of resin bomb racks that sell for $20, along with three SC 250 bombs and a SC
500 bomb for an additional $15.
While there are no seatbelts and no instrument panel decals provided, Eduard has just released two excellent photoetch sets that include complete seat belts and highly detailed instrument panels.
CONSTRUCTION |
I began construction by assembling
the wings and tail surfaces, including the main bases of the main landing gear,
which I then set aside as I proceeded to the daunting task of assembling the
cockpit.
While the cockpit is complex, it is
not complicated if you commit the radical act of following the instructions.
I painted all the parts with Xtracrylix
RLM 66 Schwartzgrau before proceeding with
assembly. I also painted the leather padding with Xtracrylix RLM 81
Braunviolett.
I used the Eduard seatbelts, which really add to the
look of the cockpit.
I did not yet have the instrument panel photoetch sheet,
and so did the instruments with instrument face decals from bits and parts of
other decal sheets.
I would highly recommend the Eduard set, which will
really add to the final look.
Once the cockpit parts were in
place, it was time to assemble the fuselage, which comes in four parts, and
turns out to be quite difficult to fit.
I checked with Brett Green about his experience, and he
had the same difficulties.
I started by attaching the upper and lower parts to the
right fuselage half, which had most of the cockpit, then began fitting the left
half, starting with the cockpit and working back an inch at a time, clamping
with rubber bands, to the tail.
Once this had set up, I applied C-A glue to the really
heavy seams, sanded them smooth, then applied Tamiya’s “Mr. Surfacer”
substitute, sanded smooth again, and then rescribed the panel lines.
Once this was accomplished, the
rest of the assembly was straightforward.
I attached the wings and tail surfaces, and the control
surfaces - with the elevators “drooped.”
I then assembled and attached the
Rutman resin bomb racks, which needed a bit of gap-filling once they were in
position on the lower wing surface.
It was time to mask off all that
glass.
I used Tamiya tape, and the process took several hours over a couple of
days to accomplish.
I would recommend you get the Eduard pre-cut mask sheet,
which will make things much easier.
COLORS & MARKINGS |
Painting:
After I pre-shaded the panel lines
with flat black, the model was painted with Xtracrylix RLM65
Hellblau, RLM70 Schwartzgrun
and RLM71 Dunkelgrun.
When this was fully dry, I gave the model a coat of
Future.
Decals:
The kit decals need a bit of extra
help in settling in, so I used Solvaset on them.
The very complete stenciling is a bit difficult to scope
out from the decal instructions, but the result is worth the effort.
I used swastika decals from an Aeromaster sheet of
swastikas.
FINAL CONSTRUCTION |
I washed the model to get rid of
decal solvent residue, then applied two coats of Xtracrylix Flat Varnish.
When that was dry, I applied exhaust stains with Tamiya
“Smoke,” then attached the wheels and props, and the very thin canopy radio
antenna mast (which will break if you look at it wrong; be
very careful separating it from the parts sprue).
I mounted the rear guns in position, and unmasked the
canopy glass.
CONCLUSIONS |
The account of the construction may
sound easy, but be forewarned that this is a biiiiiiig project, just by the size
of the model.
The cockpit is an assembly project all on its own and requires
every bit of effort you can put into detail painting.
(I wish I had photos of the cockpit during assembly, but
I discovered too late that the flash card I was using had been corrupted and the
pictures were not useable.)
Painting the exterior is right up there with painting a
barn with a 12-inch brush as far as how time-consuming it is to get full cover
without “holidays.”
That said, the end result is a very nice model of the
version of the Ju-88 I have always wanted to have in my collection.
Any modeler of at least average ability, who has the
patience to commit to the effort, can have a very impressive model as a result.
Highly recommended.
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